Mar 25 2008

A reporter’s life in Nigeria

Published by Elizabeth.Dickinson at 1:55 pm under Updates from Abroad

I came to Nigeria in the morning, before the sun had risen, and when the haze still gathers over the covered hills. It’s the kind of haze that the occasional palm tree can break, between the shadows of rolling ups and downs in the earth. The airport was quiet, but not in a way that matches the skies. The airport is quiet in an empty way—the way that guards are kept late into the night and the customs officials are scraping the sleep off their eyes as they hassle the incoming passengers.

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Professor Chukwuma was my window into Abuja. The only person I knew—having met him on the plane—he offered a ride to Asokoro. But the driver meant to pick me came, also in silence, and so we went in silence into Abuja. The usual smile I use with strangers didn’t open Munir for weeks. Only a few announcements: “this is Lugbe, this is the Ministry of X,Y,Z” broke the expecting still.

And so we rolled over the last hill into Abuja like a dream. No speaking, no expectations, only open eyes. The wide streets and the towering sky scrapers looked clean and easy in a way I had not expected. Like the emerald city peeking over the skyline, I watched signs to the various districts: Wuse, Asokoro, Maitama. I thought my fate was wrapped up in at least one of the areas, maybe more.

I left Nigeria for the first time in the morning, too—in my own car, and in the same silence. The mechanic and now my friend led me out of the winding paths of Asokoro, onto the model expressways, and entering Airport Road. He drove with a speed that reminded me of the notoriety of Airport Road’s safety record; even I have seen fatal accidents there. So I slipped out of Abuja with the hum of a Honda engine and a wink of the sleepy eye. Much as I came in.

It is and it isn’t the place that I imagined. Fear gripped me when I entered. Despite time in West Africa before, I heard that Nigeria was somehow different—the microcosm of the region, bundled in a difficult-to-live-with package. The characterization was entirely accurate, but the implications unexpected. Everything that is happening in West Africa, is happening somewhere in Nigeria, too. Every climate in the region is in a city—whether south, east, west, or north. Every struggle is being fought and every battle is being won and lost. Every food is being eaten and every hand is reaching into the plate. Every prayer is being said and every pastor is saying it. I shouldn’t have been scared. And I was completely right to be.

I’m seated in my car—it could be any day or any hour. The window is open because I don’t want to “chop foil” (use gasoline) using the AC. And my little Honda shutters when I turn on the cool when we are idling. “Oyibo?” the newspaper boy, the pre-paid phone card boy… they are at your window. “Hey, my sista, which one you want?” Shake your head, smile. “Oyibo, you no want?” It’s your name. But it doesn’t mean poorly. “Oyibo?” Did it have an “n?” In the Yoruba textbook, it does. In Nigeria, it doesn’t. Get used to the contradictions.

There is a way of speaking in Nigeria that opens up the soul. There is a bluntness about “broken” English that doesn’t exist in the ‘proper’ language. Commands come off gentle “Komot fo road!” even when their translations would be rough “Get off the road!” The face and the hands get involved, and both parties are enraptured. You can’t but concoct your next sentence before your interlocutor has finished his own. When learning most foreign languages there is a pause… but the pause would kill everything. Unless it were punctuated by sucking of the teeth, or sliding of the guttural to make a sharp squeeze.

Words are added everyday. When the president was hoping to amend the constitution and win a third term in office, he created a word for his intrepid guise. In Warri, a city in the Delta and the heart of broken English, you could miss that the phrases were ever rooted in English—and why not?

Once you fall into broken, it runs in your blood. You see things and react with your sharp “kaieye!” snapping your fingers forward like you want to flick a penny from your index and middle fingers. When a truck blocks the road, “na wow-o…” with a shake of the head and quick inward gasp that sucks in just enough saliva to make a suction of disgust. When you greet your people, it is smiles and “well done-o!” Yes-o, dem dey try.

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It would be easy to float on the surface of Nigeria and never realize how deep the water is. The sun that shines down reflects back at the observer, preventing any view of the fish, the coral, or whatever might be there below. So most visitors don’t see much more than the occasional piranha that scratches the surface of the glittering waters.

But it only takes a small dive in to see a bit more. Just minutes from the well built houses and integral sewer systems of Asokoro are villages where neither roads nor latrines flow as they should. The well-uniformed guards in the governors’ lodges are paid only N18,000 a month—about $150—or barely enough to cover their transport from the villages into town. The fast food restaurants are populated by expats, politicians, and various other big men. But the economic disparities are only the start. Countries are run on money. But few countries run more on money and because of money than Nigeria. Every transaction is facilitated with naira. When the employer pays salaries, the “oga” (boss) takes a cut. When the police pull over a violating vehicle, you settle with cash. Getting court documents and information often costs “the cost of the printing” plus a bit of extra for the service.

With humble eyes, I shutter to call it corruption. It has to change—sure—but not before a lot else changes. The policeman paid only enough to cover his uniform has to beg on the job for handouts. The clerk wants to take something home to his family. Or he wants something to spend on his girlfriend. The premium on a few extra naira is a difference in lifestyle. And by now, all that is ingrained.

Then you descend deeper. Nigeria is run on contracts. Policies, laws, decrees are all tied to contracts: to rebuild schools, to deliver new cars, to fix roads, to “empower” the people. So as a politician, it’s an easy thing to make money. You write the contracts, so you pick the contractor. Your friends get the contracts; it’s their choice whether to deliver. They have overestimated the price already, so by the time the contractor leaves the road unfinished or the rooms uncarpeted, it is he himself who can afford a road to a mansion in Abuja and a carpet from Morocco.

A (convicted) corrupt man told me it’s all about social security. It’s the only way to survive and take care of your own. In a place with so much poverty, when the chance to be rich comes up, you leap at it. You go crazy. You don’t know how else to react except to hide it all away because you know in Nigeria, it might be gone tomorrow. So Nigerian assets are more numerous in London than they are in country. And foreign banks probably hold more deposits than those in Nigeria.

But no one seems angry about the system, only angry that they are not the ones at the top. The same system that puts big men in Mercedes convoys led by six mobile police officers and flashing lights relegates the common man to a shanty house in the suburbs. But everyone dreams of the convoy, the Mercedes, the generator, and the trips to London. Without that system, he won’t—couldn’t ever—get it.

To be a rebel, you have to be inside. The biggest men have to like you and the darkest dealers have to find you tolerable. You have to be enough of a friend that your threat is palpable. You have to have your hands dirty enough that your kindness doesn’t mask it. But in the end, you might still change something. Small. Slowly. Or you might descend deeper, finding yourself sullied without a bit of reform left to wash you clean. It’s a danger every day.

The people are trying. Almost every day between 12 and 2pm, my driver and I arrive at Mama Ghana restaurant, an outdoor collection of benches overlooking a mountain of warming pots. “Maimuna, your friend done come!” cries echo across the house, into the farm in the back, and back into the concrete shell restaurant.

“Ah-ah!” Maimuna smiles. Her hand is sullied with palm oil but I shake it anyways…sometimes just the back of the wrist, if the red stuff is dripping too much. Smile. “How you dey?” (How are you?) The emphasis falls hard on the last word as her eyes open and her head nods. “How you dey?” the question comes again. Answer in broken English. Doesn’t matter what I say.

A heaping plate of rice and fried plantains arrives in front of me on the wood bench. Invariably, I am the only oyibo. But I seem to belong. Or at least Maimuna and the family think so—and that’s usually enough to interest most customers but not bother them enough to look up from their yam eating.

Yam, and food in general, is serious business. Maimuna and her extended family make serious business off of the civil servants who work in Asokoro and who come to her restaurant morning to night. The customers make serious work of the egusi, draw soup, and stew, mixed with chicken or cow head or beef or fish that Maimuna rattles off in succession. “Oga, how many meat I go give you?”

Eating is done in a hurry. Complete concentration, very little talking. Yam. Cut a piece. Scoop the soup. Hand into mouth. Wash it down, wash your hands. Can’t leave without a toothpick. Complaining is an indelible part. The stew is not enough. The meat is not real chicken. The cow shouldn’t cost so much. But between words hurled at Maimuna (she deflects with skill), the customers are taking bites.

Everyone in Abuja hates Lagos, and everyone in Lagos thinks they would be crazy to live anywhere else. Nigeria is a mini-west Africa, and Lagos is a mini Nigeria. The countless districts of the sprawling city make it one of the most vibrant and vibrating in the world. You must come to Lagos with a strong heart, or you’ll leave without a pulse. Then again, maybe if you came without a pulse, you would be moved to cardiac function by force.

The streets are full at all hours of the day. Cars, danfos (buses), taxis, okadas (motorbikes), pedestrians, hawkers, street sellers, beggars, policemen, and you. You all want to be in the same lane. You all want to make the day’s pay. And you all want to do it first. Congestion. Competition. Your tools are few: accelerator, horn, window. Fight for the lane and holler robust Yoruba expressions when you lose. Stay quiet when you’re in first place…it won’t last long.

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You smell Lagos long before you can make out what the city really looks like. Burning wood or burning trash, then sometimes a joint, or sometimes akara (bean cake) by the roadside. Smoke rises from everything, covering the appearance but lifting out a distinct pattern that the nose can’t help but detect. The Lagos native must have a dictionary of smells to find his way through the smoke. For the outsider, it is like opening a package one bit at a time. The ribbon comes off and you have a clue. The paper falls to the ground and the exterior looks certain. Look carefully or you might miss what is inside.

One of the oldest districts, Yaba feels like a village. Everyone knows who is who. Everyone remembers what streets you walked, and who you greeted. Everyone knows who is in your family and who has come to visit. The mud streets are filled with the same venders, the same beggars, the same taxi drivers, and the same street boys hollering out for what they want. Colors—brown akara, yellow plantains, red walls, yellow taxis, green vegetables, silver tin roofs, red tomatoes, dark blue sewers, scorching blue sky.

It was in Yaba that I found family. The Aunties, Omolara, Henry, Baba. A Yoruba family, and me adopted. The Yoruba flows quickly between conversationalists so I hear half the words. Between facial expressions and gestures, I can make out the gist. When I laugh at a joke, they usually ask me for a direct translation, which I cannot produce. But somehow, I’m not completely lost. “Mo n gbo, mo n gbo.” (I’m understanding, I’m understanding!) Some of my words I have to dissect, also, since my accent is not clear. I’m trying…“Mo gbiyanju!…Mo gbi-yan-ju!”

At night, I go upstairs to Baba’s family compound, where there is a TV, a balcony, and a subtle commotion. Baba, the grandfather, and I talk about politics, Nigeria, Lagos, music, America, and then when they can expect me back in Lagos. Power goes off and on. “Nepa nepa, thank you-o,” someone is bound to say. With each surge, the fan rotates more on edge with a swooping sound that makes you question how well it is screwed into the ceiling. But you forget quickly. Not everyone is dancing to the music videos playing on TV. Even I know the words to the running soundtrack of popular songs that all of Nigeria is listening to.

I taste the best food I’ve ever had in Nigeria, over and over again every day. My body waits for the breakfast of fried egg and bread all night, waking when I can’t stand the delay any longer. The long fast of working is broken at night by fried plantains and stew, vegetable soup, and paw paw (papaya). A day into my stay, Aunti comes home from London, where she has been living for years. Now the friends and neighbors start coming by to eat and visit too. More jolloff rice than could fit on my stove greets Aunti’s brother and his contingent of daughters when they arrive on Saturday afternoon. I’ve already eaten, but with their invitation, neither want nor ability leaves it in me to say no.

“Shah—Madam, welcome!” 6am, and my driver is already waiting. He’s bright and well dressed, packed and ready for a trip. I’m shaking sleep and he is ready for work. We are going to Katsina, a 6-hour drive away from Abuja, to see an agricultural project. I don’t know the road and I don’t know the distance. Bello knows how many tanks of gas it will take, which roundabouts we should follow, and which check points we should avoid.

Bello came by luck. Once a car mechanic, a driver for the Presidency, a commercial driver, and probably loads else, today Bello is around 40, living alone. His stature is half my own in size, and usually covered neatly in a white traditional northern dress of a long shirt and loose slacks. He always wears a circular hat that would mark him as a Muslim in most places in the world, but in Nigeria, merely marks him as from the North. That he is a Muslim is merely coincidence.

Bello navigates the road with skill. We get a laugh by the police checkpoints, after they tell him in Hausa that he should have his oyibo pay them extra. He speeds by. Slowly driving north, the forests change from green palm and tropical trees to a dusty cascade of yam and groundnut fields. Villages by the sides of the roads are made of caked mud, crafted into cubicle structures with rooms of different heights, shapes, and sizes. The walls are molded with a particular pattern of in-out-molding, as if a palm pressed every piece of clay into place and was unrelenting in leaving clearly its mark.

The roadsides villages look both busy and sedate. It is impossible to go five kilometers without finding a children’s football match. Most people are away at the farms at the time when we pass them by the road. So the few remaining are stewing.

Bello is my second driver, and couldn’t be more different from the first. During months of taxi-taking, I found Jasper, who I started working with every day. Where Bello is short, Jasper is alarmingly tall (though the two are both skinny). Bello quiet, Jasper bombastic and in control—independent in a way that taxi drivers are usually not.

To Jasper, I owe a lot. His kindness and good driving in a sometimes difficult place made work a bit more pleasant. He passed on rumors, history, stories, and opinions from Abuja that I couldn’t have gotten elsewhere. And it was to Jasper that I attribute my knowledge of broken English. It is also to him that I attribute my love for egusi soup and fried fish.

But it’s trickier than all that. He might have been stealing from me, and I don’t really know, nor care to know. For the first months, I paid him quite high, compared to the “typical” pay scale. He drew up his expenses for me, and it made sense at the time, but then figures were somehow inflated. I’d rather ignore the idea that one of my first friends was also merely a business deal. Because deep down, I don’t think that was it. He calls at least once a week to make sure I’m alive. Actually, that means a lot.

The Niger Delta is falling apart. If Sierra Leone is after, the Niger Delta is before. Before civil war, that is. Before full-blown societal destruction. Before someone having to finally step in.

What I can’t forget from Port Harcourt are the young boys. For years, the city has been the center of Nigeria’s massive oil production. But aside from a few crafty politicians, the region has seen none of the oil wealth. Activity from oil operations has all but destroyed the environment, rendering agriculture and fishing futile. It’s a story told and over told engraining hatred, anger, and entitlement into a generation that has never known good government, safe communities, or sound ecosystems.

But somewhere along the way, money crept into it again. Those angry boys learned that politicians would pay them to rig elections and win votes. They learned that oil companies would give them ‘contracts” to guard the oil facilities, clean up oil spills, or liaise with their communities. And they learned that if they could access those oil pipes—many of which are above ground—they could make money on their own by bunkering the crude and moving it to a fleet of illicit tankers off the Gulf of Guinea.

The boys have grown rotten, left out under too many battering days of sun without a hand to guide them, safeguard them, or tell them otherwise. They found their own economy—and the only one they can access, because the conventional ways just won’t go. And so the wealth seeps out of their soggy shells. Golden chains hang from their necks, designer jeans decorate their stride. Their cars are too fast and their homes are too big. Of course, they make enemies. So both the cars and the homes are rattled with bullet holes.

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Before the war in Sierra Leone, they say there was a collapse of leadership—of traditional means of societal integrity. Here, we are long past that point. And falling.

I wake with the sun—which comes around 6:15am all year around thanks to my position near the equator. From my house, I run up a paved road, by governors’ lodges, and past the Norwegian and Dutch embassies. The path takes me to the dirt roads that exit Asokoro out of town, and leads to the villages. I attribute my little knowledge of Hausa to the villagers greeting me, and my attempts to greet them back. “Sanu… na gajia? L’aafia l’o.” Yes, we have peace here, thank God.

Every morning in Nigeria, I have to pinch myself to make sure it’s real. And from there, I don’t know what the day will bring.

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435 Responses to “A reporter’s life in Nigeria”

  1. Nasheedon 04 Jul 2008 at 10:12 am

    I live in New York City, where I was born more than half a century ago. I ply the Nigerian private cab drivers in Brooklyn with questions about their home country. I am naturally curious about many places in the Motherland. Nigeria has the largest black population of any city on earth. It is supposedly the fourteenth most populated city in the world. New York is twelfth.

    Due to the social riches of cyberspace, I have an e-friend who lives in Lagos, Nigeria. I finally answered his last e-mail to me tonight (over six weeks after receiving it). I’m still thinking about him and wondering what the large city of Lagos looks like. I’ve never even seen pictures of Lagos. So, over an hour ago, I began using Google Images to search for photos of Lagos.

    I’d already come across several photos that captivated my attention and imagination. I’ve saved a photo of a slum in Lagos, featuring a handsome smiling boy wearing a tee shirt that says “HIV Positive”. I loved it. I save a copy, then move on. I find two photos of the skyline of Lagos taken from out on the water. I save them. A photo of a busy market; a street congested with mini-buses, cars and hundreds of pedestrians - an impossible looking scene; a photo of the British International School on Victoria Island in Lagos looks serene, though strangely out of place; I save copies of all these photos.

    It is not a photo, but the beginning of a beautifully written passage of your blog entry that catches my attention and causes me to stop and read the page.

    “You smell Lagos long before you can make out what the city really looks like. Burning wood or burning trash, then sometimes a joint, or sometimes akara (bean cake) by the roadside. Smoke rises from everything, covering the appearance but lifting out a distinct pattern that the nose can’t help but detect. The Lagos native must have a dictionary of smells to find his way through the smoke. For the outsider, it is like opening a package one bit at a time…”

    Finally, information that could never be contained in a photograph is giving me small descriptions of many things to allow my sense of smell and hearing to participate in taking in this glimpse of life in Nigeria. My sixth sense, intuition (direct perception of Truth) is hungry to share the adventure, but I’m better off using it with the Brooklyn cab drivers.

    Your writing is very rich. I tried my best to clean my plate with what you fed me here.

    I am more than grateful. I wish to repay you, in some way. Instead, I’ll shower Allah’s kindness on someone else I encounter farther down this road later today.

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